Days 11, 12 & 13- Azofra to Burgos

Day 11 - AZOFRA to SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA (16 kms)
Waking up before sunrise and leaving Azofra turned out to be quite easy and worth the effort. I think this is something I will do much more often; you can usually arrive at your destination before the blazing noonday sun makes the going all the more difficult.

Wicked beautiful sunrise in Azofra

The much-scorned wheat fields have their own particular brand of beauty...

Some prefer to walk (black), others to cycle (yellow)

You don't always get to walk through pretty fields and lush forests. A good part of the Camino takes place on concrete paths, alongside busy highways and through industrial areas.

Some hostels are bigger than others. This one, in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, was so big you had to take a number just to get registered. They did serve cold water and fruit as you waited....

Despite its wide width, my left Miracle Boot is ripping my little toenail from its toebed; it's literally hanging by a thread. I try my old trail runners on but with all the bandages, my left foot doesn't even fit into the shoe. So I purposely leave them at the hostel in Santo Domingo (they can be someone else's Miracle Trailrunners) and buy myself some new ones. I can expect new blisters as I have to break these new runners in, but it'll be better than rubbing my toe in those boots. (Note: I have thought of cutting out the side of my left boot to allow more space for my toe, but doctors have warned me that the dry sand and dust would get into the wound and that infection would surely spell the end of my Camino. So no.)  Check 'em out!

Day 12 - SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA to BELORADO (24 kms)

These early, early mornings are just so beautiful... My favorite time to walk.

My only photo with my 3 companions. Janko (jolly and kind Austrian), Reiner (hilarious and witty German who lives in Norway) and Gala (quick-tongued Aussie).  This was to be my last day with them; Buen Camino, my friends!

Yay, more sunflowers!

Ugh. Pretty sure I read the 576 km sign a few DAYS ago... And didn't we just pass the 555 kms sign?  Must send new pedometer and fresh batteries to Camino kilometer-counting council.

Reiner and Gala carrying on. Reiner is quite entertaining; he insists on carrying his food in a plastic bag for the entire Camino, just like he did when he walked to school as a boy. It's a comfort thing, he tells me; like a blankie. I find this very sweet.

In Belorado tonight, Janko accompanies me to a clinic, after strongly urging me to consult a doctor about my disgusting little toe (it looks so gross that I started bawling when I unwrapped it). The doc tells me I need at least one week's rest, or better yet, two. Hmph. That won't happen, but it is a happy coincidence because tomorrow is the day that I must take a bus to Burgos. You see, I have foolishly allowed myself a mere 4 weeks to do the Camino before my flight to Greece, as opposed to the necessary 5 weeks -- so tomorrow I must exchange 2 days of walking for a busride, and then another 4 days' worth of walking from Burgos to Léon. In total, I must let go of 6 days of walking. I'm not happy about it, and next time I will plan better. Anyway, my toe will get a day off from trekking through cornfields tomorrow as I stop in Burgos for a quick visit, then make my way straight to Léon. Although... had I known how beautiful the Meseta area was, I might have skipped over the mountainous, challenging stuff instead.  ;-)

Day 13 - BURGOS

I say goodbye to Janko in the morning (Thank you so much for helping me out! What a pleasure it was to get to know you!) and take a bus to Burgos. Two days' worth of walking whiz by in a half-hour bus ride!!  

Walking into Burgos' historic center is like walking into Disneyland (well, probably not for those of you who've been to Disneyland...)

Burgos' gothic Santa Maria Cathedral, built in 13th century and Spain's 2nd largest.

I really enjoyed walking through Burgos' lovely plazas and streets.... What a beautiful city.

Burgos is referred to as Spain's gothic capital. It was also the dictator Franco's headquarters, and is named for its impressive defensive towers (which are called burgos). 

Below, with Claire (France) and Karen (Australia), two ladies whom I met back in my very first days and about whom I now realized I didn't write anything! They are absolutely lovely!  

Claire's two big toenails are coming off and Karen's had tendinitis in her right knee almost from the very start. These ladies kept walking throughout all of it; what an inspiration!  I had a chance encounter with them in Burgos and we were very happy to see each other. This is my favorite thing about the Camino; the quick friendships that are formed, sometimes by sharing feet and knee remedies.