Day 7 to Day 10 - Los Arcos to Azofra

Day 7 - LOS ARCOS to VIANA (20 km)

A relatively short day today, and I've said goodbye to Emma who is returning to Australia because of a herniated disk, which caused shooting pain down her leg. I've decided to hike without my backpack today, in order to avoid further knee injury. I've sent my bag ahead of me to the hostel in the next town (this is a service offered by a few companies here). What a difference! So I spent the day strolling relatively pain-free in beautiful 30-degree sunshine. This is what I got to see:

Approaching the town of Lorca, where I enjoyed freshly-squeezed orange juice. Micheal is walking ahead with Galina.

An old pilgrim's shelter

The view from Viana Cathedral gardens.

For those who are keeping themselves up at night wondering, breakfast is usually offered in each hostel for 3-4 euros and consists of coffee and bread/toast, maybe with jam or honey; in one rare instance, I got to have Nutella with my bread! No eggs and bacon here; typical Spanish breakfasts usually consist of a coffee and cigarette (not kidding). For lunch, I stop in little towns along the way, at small market stores to pick up fruit for snacks on the road, and usually can find a bar serving lunch. Lunch is usually a ham and cheese sandwich, and often a cold beer or freshly-squeezed orange juice. For supper, a Pilgrim's Menu is offered in each town for 10-13 euros, usually bottled water, bread, red wine, a first and second course, then dessert. Quite generous and regenerative, although the disproportionate amount of red wine and bread isn't making my shorts fit looser than before. Thankfully, they're not any tighter either ; )

Day 8 - VIANA to LOGRONO (12 kms)

Very short day thankfully, cuz my feet and right knee need a break anyway. I hiked the 12 kms with my backpack today, but in my flip-flops to prevent my toenail from rubbing off inside my boot. Another woman has gone home today because of a bad back. She's an über-athlete, so I suggested she hike without her backpack, but the first week has just done her in. Wow. Am I going to make it to Santiago?

Bit of a boring day, actually. Logrono was a fun little place at night; Galina and I met fellow pilgrims Reiner and Janko at a sidewalk restaurant.

So back home, it was somewhat difficult getting ready for the Camino in terms of packing. Your pack should weigh no more than 10kg, and even that is too heavy. For example, I brought only two t-shirts, which I alternate daily. When I get to my hostel at the end of the day, I wash the shirt I wore (t-shirt #1) when I'm in the shower, then hang it up to dry. I wear t-shirt #2 the next day, and usually hang t-shirt #1 over my backpack, since it doesn't usually completely dry overnight. That night, I wash t-shirt #2 in the shower, hang it up to dry and wear t-shirt #1 the 3rd day. And so on and so forth. Same thing with underwear (3 pairs max) and socks (3 pairs max). It all gets alternated but you need to remember to wash them, unless you wanna stink to high Heaven at breakfast the next morning. I have an extra tank top and pants that I wear in the afternoon once I've showered, and that's it. Many people choose not to bring PJs, but sleep in the clothes they will wear the following day. So you can imagine sleeping in a dorm with 30 beds, there are wet clothes hanging everywhere!

Day 9 - LOGRONO to VENTOSA (20 kms)
Uneventful day -- hiked up to Ventosa, even though I would have liked to go farther. Stayed at a wonderful home that has been turned into a very welcoming pilgrim's hostel, ran by a delightful elderly man named Enrique. At this point, Micheal has chosen to walk on --he and his feet are in great shape and I simply can't keep up with him (he's a walking machine!)  I'm quite saddened, as I've very much enjoyed his company over the last week. Goodbye, my friend. Hope we meet again over a glass of wine!

The ubiquitous Spanish symbol. The province of Catalonia, where Barcelona is situated, has banned bullfighting and has 'dropped' the bull as its sacred symbol. They've adopted the donkey as their new mascot. This is a hot topic in Spain, along with the fact that Catalonia now wants to separate from the rest of Spain (as does Basque Country.)

The town of Ventosa appears like a mirage

Just 576 kms to go!

One thing I'm continually shocked with (or laughing my butt of about, depending on the moment) is the propensity for older European men to walk freely around the hostel wearing only their underwear. And I don't mean boxers. And I don't mean walking from the shower to their rooms. They will meet downstairs to prepare their supper or have a beer with their buddies in their TIGHTY WHITIES. No t-shirt, no tank top. Just tight, white underwear, socks and their sandals. I've respectfully spared you the photos. I can't tell you how many times I've turned a corner or looked up to find a 70-year-old man in his skivvies just standing there. I remember writing in despair to friends and family about Italian men and their Speedos at the beach 7 years ago; my lack of comprehension on this matter has not changed!

Day 10 -VENTOSA to AZOFRA (15 kms)
The 2 blisters on my little toe have made it go from bad to insanely swollen. I debate this morning whether to squeeze it into my boot or hike 15 kms in my flipflops. I have somehow run out of bandages without noticing, I dropped my camera on the concrete outside (it thankfully did not break), I accidentally sprayed red iodine solution all over the bathroom wall of the lovely hostel, and I am completely disorganized and fumbling about when packing my bag. Not a good morning for me; I don't feel like myself and I miss my friends, my family and the comfort of my home in Canmore. I feel dejected -- this is the Camino testing me. But I am tenacious at best (stubborn as an ass, at worse). When I walk into the local café and ol' Enrique buys me breakfast simply out of kindness, I am touched and burst into tears. My faith is restored and I continue on.

Meet Chuti, the donkey. He is travelling with a man named Gregorius who is 75 and doing his 4th camino. I think this is a really fun way to walk The Way, and hope that Roland has found a burro with whom to share the load of the road.

 Goodbye, Ventosa

Thought I only had 576 kms to go yesterday. Hmm. It seems a few kms have piled on overnight. These inaccuracies are posted everywhere, but I don't care. The road is where the road is and I will simply get to Santiago when I get there.

Sunset in Azofra